Plunging into the ocean to ride moving walls of water may not be the most conventional pastime, but it’s enthralled millions of people worldwide.
Varying from the weekend warrior to a full-blown surf addict you’ll see beaches, reefs and points packed with people trying to get their ‘surfing fix’.
But what is it about surfing that so many of us can’t get enough of? Let’s take a deep dive into why people love surfing so much and find out.
Being Part Of A Global Community
As social animals, we all want to feel a sense of belonging and surfing delivers that in droves
With committed, regular surfers only making up a very small part of the global population you’re already part of a pretty exclusive club.
No matter where you are you’ll never be disappointed to meet another ocean lover and this sense of immediate comradery is hard to find, even in other sports.
The older I get the more important I think this becomes, when you’re younger it’s all about skills, performance and wave count, I would rarely even chat.
But now I find myself chatting to strangers all the time and that sense of being able to talk to almost anyone and have something in common is something I’m starting to value (especially after being locked up for nearly a year).
Being Part Of A Local Surfing Community
If you’re lucky enough to live somewhere coastal that gets swell you’re automatically entered into your local surfing community and this is a massive part of some of our lives.
From surf lifesaving clubs to boardriders there are some amazing crews of people out there who spend much of their time in and around the ocean.
Hailing from a swell-starved beach on the south coast of England we didn’t have anything like a surf club but after spending time in Australia you can see the great work these organisations do in the local community.
Challenge & Progression
Just like any other sport, surfing comes with a unique learning curve that’s different for everyone.
But whether you’re taking your first surfing lesson or you’re an experienced charger that feeling of satisfaction you get from improving is always there.
What you define as a benchmark for progression will be ever-changing but knowing you’re improving is key to the love of surfing in my opinion.
It can be the first time you stand up on your surfboard, the first time you surf along the unbroken wave or the first time you find yourself inside a tube.
Whatever stage you’re at that awesome feeling of achieving something new you’ve been striving for is undeniable and becomes a lot of people’s drive for surfing.
Want some surefire ways to speed up your surfing progress? Head over to our list of definitive surf tips for real advice acquired from years of surfing.
Health & Fitness
A love of surfing goes hand in hand with a healthy lifestyle and a good level of fitness.
While the majority opt for the gym or other sports to get their blood flowing some people use surfing as a way of keeping themselves fit and healthy.
Obviously, we’re not always blessed with never-ending swell but by adding surf-based training like swimming and paddle boarding you can quickly stay surf-fit all year round.
Want to know more? Don’t miss our definitive guide on how to improve your surfing at home for some great ways to level up your skills.
Immersing Yourself In Nature
Some people’s love for surfing stems simply from being in and around the ocean and nature.
Surfers like this tend to opt for larger boards, cruiser styles and less competitive lineups that let them really enjoy the experience of being out in the sea catching waves.
And it’s no surprise, the benefits of sun and sea on both your mental and physical wellbeing are well documented.
You get vitamin D from soaking up the sun’s rays and I personally don’t know of any better place to truly forget all of your life’s troubles and just focus on one thing.
Head over to our guide on all of the health benefits of surfing to learn more about our amazing sports holistic benefits.
Escapism & Adventure
This is a massive part of what draws me to surfing over any other sport in the world (and keeps me hooked!).
Surfing offers a truly unique form of escapism and adventure, it lets you escape from the daily routines and immerse yourself in a hunt for moving walls of water.
The pursuit of new surf spots, exploration of different coastlines, and the search for the perfect wave can ignite a sense of adventure and excitement that’s hard to find anywhere else bar climbing and skiing/snowboarding.
The idea there is always another headland with another beach or point means you never run out of opportunities to search and if you’re lucky, it pays off.
Creative Expression
Even though we have the WSL and a competitive circuit in surfing it doesn’t necessarily mean there is a right or wrong way to surf.
While some surfing may be more acrobatic it doesn’t mean it’s better, just different.
You are completely free to surf waves however you want and that’s quite a liberating feeling.
The lines you draw on the wave, your body movements, they’re all a form of expression on your canvas.
Surfers like Joel Tudor and Rob Machado embody this sense of true freedom on their boards, drawing lines unlike no other with a style that is truly unique to them.
Not sure about surfing style? Head over to our short read on what is surfing style and how you can find yours.
Wrapping Up
Surfing captivates the hearts of millions worldwide, from the sense of belonging to the camaraderie found in local surfing circles we all have our own unique reason for loving surfing.
The feeling of achievement and growth is an undeniable source of joy in surfing and the physical demands of paddling and riding waves are guaranteed to keep you fit.
But what about you? What is it about surfing that you just can’t get enough of?
Whether you’re a seasoned pro or have yet to dip your toes into the surf, let the ocean be your playground, your refuge, and your inspiration.
Embrace the art of riding waves, connect with the surfing community, and embark on your own journey of self-discovery through the transformative power of surfing.
So, what are you waiting for? Grab a board, dive in the ocean, and you might just fall in love!